GREY clouds
and

silver LININGS

Yesterday was a grey day for me and for Kabul

The transition from peaceful, dream-filled sleep to explosions and gun fire is one that shocks you to the core. In that moment, when the world is still fuzzy and unclear in your half awake state, in an instance you are forced back into a dark reality; if only we could control our realities the way our mind and emotions control our dreams.  

My shock instantly turned to anger. It was a Friday morning, the holy day. People were innocently and helplessly asleep, just as I had been. I felt angry towards the people that could somehow justify these actions. I felt angry that even on the birthday of the prophet Mohammad, these so-called muslims felt it was a good day to commit these acts. I felt angry at the disrespect and disregard for the Afghan people who only want, more than anything to live a peaceful life.

So yesterday there was a grey cloud hanging over Kabul. The grey smoke filled the air of the city and remained, lingering for hours; my mind filled with greyness which lasted longer than the smoke.

It was six weeks ago that I decided to start writing my blog. It was the attack on Kabul in January that made me want to share with my loved ones the beauty of the country, but I also to share with them my experiences. I hope I never have to write about bad times, but I have a feeling they will come again.

I have an even stronger feeling that the beauty of the country, its people, and my friends here will blow away the greyness and bring the sunshine that we all long for. It is this beauty that forms the silver lining on the grey clouds.

Last weekend was one of these silver linings. It was filled with new experiences, friends, and love. Below are photos of an amazing place in Kabul, Murad Khani. Turquoise Mountain is regenerating the area and I had the pleasure of capturing a glimpse into its future, part of the so-wanted peaceful future of Kabul.


Picture
Peacock house
Picture
detailed carved peacocks
Picture
the blacksmiths
Picture
the fruit bazaar
Picture
Picture
Picture
pottery school
Picture
silver linings
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
the wood workshop
Picture
 
 
BEAUTY
and the 
BEASTS
This weekend was an ADVENTURE in so many ways. It was one of those weekends that leaves you with a thoroughly satisfied feeling, a bit like how you feel after a good hearty meal. It reminded me of what I love about discovering a new country. 
Picture
Ever since arriving in Kabul, I have been looking forward to watching my first Buzkashi match. Buzkashi is one of those sports that really could only exist in a place like Afghanistan.

Buzkashi is sometimes compared to polo as the closest western sport. However, polo is played with a ball and Buzkashi is played with a dead goat. Polo matches last for only an hour and Buzkashi matches can last for days. Essentially, Buzkashi has next to no rules apart from having to lift a 60kg carcass whilst on horseback, run around a flag and then drop it into a white circle.
Picture
Apparently during the Russian era in Afghanistan, the government tried to organise Buzkashi games for the people. Their communist nature meant that not only did they govern the people; they provided leisure time activities too. However, in the true Afghan way, the people rebelled and refused to allow their Buzkashi game be controlled. And then came the Taliban era, where Buzkashi was banned as it was considered immoral. 
Picture

Spectacular to watch.
Picture
home run
Picture
straight into the spectators
Picture
some are less energetic than others
Picture
the girl
Picture
I loved this - so VOGUE! If anyone wants to inform Mr. Ralph Lauren, I think there are some serious sponsorship opportunities here for him
 
 
Pure 
Escapism
After 6 weeks in Kabul it's time for a much needed break. My destination was Oman, the Musandam Peninsula - nothing else to do apart from relax!
Picture
our boat
Picture
private boat :)
Picture
snorkelling around telegraph island
Picture
my very first dolphins!
Picture
theirs is the life
Picture
desertion
Picture
and...back home to snowy Kabul!
 
 

SIMPLY
SKATING
The Forgotten Childhoods



This blog is dedicated to my beautiful nieces and nephews who I love more than anything in this world. This weekend's experience made me realise how important their childhood is and how I wish I was a bigger part of it.
Picture
When I first heard about this NGO that teaches Afghan street kids how to skateboard, I was immediately intrigued. With all the development activities that happen in this country, you can’t help but wonder what is actually going on. Who is remembering the forgotten childhoods?
Picture
Everyday as I drive to and from my various meetings, or walk the streets of Kabul, I am approached by small Afghan children trying to sell me chewing gum, a pair of dirty old socks, or sometimes good fortune as they wave a piece of burning charcoal under my nose. These children are not in school, their parents have sent them out to work the streets because this is the only option to keep them fed and ultimately alive. 

It is these same children who are part of the SKATEISTAN project. 
Picture
The kids come running into the spacious indoor skate park. I can tell that some of them have come straight from work, with their wind burnt faces, filthy shalwar kameez's and tattered clothing. But now none of this matters as they excitedly rush to put on their protective gear ready to start their class.
Picture
the skate park
I found this scene quite ironic as they hurriedly put on the padding that would protect them for the next hour of their lives only to go back to the street to face all sorts of unimaginable horrors. I think of my nieces and nephews of the same age and understand that these Afghan children are the same as them. They want to be loved, they want to laugh, they want to play and have fun like any other child. And for this hour they can live this life.
Picture
After the warm up there was a sudden and energetic eruption as all of the kids scattered in all directions and hit the ramps. Many were eager to show me their tricks, show me their talents and not only that, they were eager to learn. They crowded around their teacher, Sophie, absorbing her words and instructions like little sponges soaking up every last drop of information. Skating was not only something they were good at but something they could get better at. Skating gave them something to work towards and showed them that the future is in their hands. They have control.
Picture
Picture
And so the forgotten childhoods are a little less forgotten than before. 
Picture
dedicated to Jaida, Jamal and Camron